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Julio C. Tello

11Peru Blog

If you’re an English speaker and are coming from a predominantly English speaking country, you might wonder “do I need to learn Spanish for Peru?”. The short answer is, very few people in Peru are able to speak English. The long answer is, some people may speak English but it helps to learn some words of Spanish or carry your phrasebook along with you.

It Really Depends on Where You Are

As long as you’re in Lima or Cusco and are only visiting popular cafés or hotels which are used to international travelers you will probably not need to learn Spanish for Peru. However, the beauty of Peru lies outside the gleaming malls and nightclubs of Miraflores and Barranco.

Consequently, always hopes to learn a little bit of Spanish in order to interact with the locals. In fact, speaking Spanish will help you to build a bond with Peruvians and they will go out of their way to make you feel at home. If you are not willing to pick up a few words in Spanish, fret not.

What can you do if you only want to use English?

There are a number of things that you can do in order to get around without learning Spanish. Some of these things include, using Google translator, just trying if the other person understands English, are using non-verbal communication. Of all these methods, Google translator is probably the most effective tool that you can use. It is free, and you can speak out your sentences into the cell phone and Google translator will type out the Spanish phrases. All you need to do is show the screen to the person that you’re trying to communicate with.

Learn Spanish in Peru

But why not pick up at least 100 useful words in Spanish?

However the question really is why would you not want to pick up a few words of Spanish when it is going to make your life easier in Peru. If you’re planning to travel in Peru and are looking for Spanish lessons do not hesitate to contact us we will provide an immersive experience to help you pick up at least 100 words that will help you learn Spanish for Peru.

So Do I Really Need to Learn Spanish for Peru?

It helps but no, you don’t need to learn Spanish for Peru. You can get by on body language, speaking in English, getting help from those around you, and even learning minimal words in Spanish. We also recommend picking up a travel guidebook that has phrases you can memorize for all the basic day to day dialog you may have in Peru. We recommend the newest editions of the Lonely Planet guidebook.

11City of Gold

In the Peruvian jungles east of Cusco lies a very peculiar city. A city known by many names; Paikikin, Vilcapampa, El Gran Paititi but most famously as El Dorado, the legendary lost city of Gold. The place where the Incas hid what remained of their golden treasures, Idols and Kings.

Since I was young I have always been fascinated by the legend of El Dorado and how it has eluded discovery to this day. For those of you unfamiliar with the legend let me introduce you to the real story of El Dorado and the lost City of Gold.

The first image of Cusco in Europe.

Cusco, Peru, 1533 – Pizarro approaches the Inca Capital City knowing full well of the treasures reported to him by his men. Qosqo the golden city of the Andes, with it’s temple walls covered with more then 700 sheets of Gold weighing more then 2 kilograms each.

Qosqo the original city of gold, now known as Cusco, holds a surprise for the approaching army of Pizarro. For at it’s center sits the Qoricancha “The Golden Courtyard”, the Incas most important temple dedicated to their creator God; the Sun. It is here where Pizarros scouts have told him of the Punchao, a massive solid-gold disk inlaid with precious stones, the representation of the Inca God himself, which has now mysteriously vanished.

Replica of the Punchao

Among the other priceless artifacts noted by Pizarros scouts were the 14 gold-clad mummies of the former Inca Emperors, all missing upon Pizarros arrival to Cusco. Tons of Gold was melted down by the Conquistadors within a month of the sacking of Cusco, most of which was sent back to Spain, some forever lost at the bottom of the Atlantic due to Spain’s Naval battles with their rivals. But it could be that the most important and spectacular of these treasures were in fact hidden by the Incas, carried away through Cusco’s underground labyrinth of secret tunnels to El Dorado.

Qorikancha, Cusco

“What secret labyrinths? that wasn’t on the tour!”, well the reason you haven’t heard of them is that they too remain under speculation. In 1600, a Jesuit Friar said: “The celebrated cave of Cuzco, called Chinkana by the Indians, was made by the Inca kings. It is very deep and runs through the center of the city, its mouth or entrance being in the fortress of Sacsayhuaman.

It comes down on the side of the mountain where the parish of San Cristobal is situated and, with varying degrees of depth, ends at the Qoricancha. All the Indians to whom I have spoken have told me that the Incas made this costly and laborious cave to enable their kings and armies to go in times of war from the fortress of Sacsayhuaman to the Temple of the Sun to worship their idol Punchao without being detected”. Could there be similar tunnels to El Dorado?

In the 17th century another attempt was made to investigate the tunnels, a team went in for several days and became lost in the supposed maze of booby trapped tunnels, only one member of the expedition came out alive from under the main altar of the Santo Domingo Church which had been built over the Qoricancha, the Incas main Temple. The confused and dirty explorer lay clinging not just to his life but an ear of corn made out of solid gold.

The Tunnels to El Dorado

A hundred years later in 1814, a Brigadier named Mateo Garcia Pumakahua claimed to have explored the tunnels and showed his superiors part of the treasure. He took them blindfolded into Cusco’s mysterious labyrinth to one of the treasure deposits. When the blindfold was removed the officers saw large silver Pumas with emeralds, and “bricks” made out of gold and silver.

Ancient underground tunnels near Chavin, Peru.

These tunnels only skim the surface of the El Dorado legend. It is widely known that throughout Peru there is an extensive network of underground tunnels. I had the honor of visiting the entrance to one of these underground tunnels in Cajamarca, 1,200 miles away from Cusco.

The entrance was small and led deep underground, the only thing that kept me from exploring was the rather large padlock and a sign that read “peligroso”, dangerous… yea I’m a real Indiana Jones I know. It is thought that one of these tunnels ran through the center of Cusco and beyond to the fortress of Sacsayhuaman overlooking Cusco.

In 1993, Father Benigno Gamarra, the abbot of the Santo Domingo Church where Qoricancha remains today confirmed “Your information is correct, but the tunnel in question extends much beyond Sacsayhuaman, since it ends in some place underneath Quiro, in Ecuador.”

So you can imagine a group of the Incas highest priest protected by their elite guard finding their way out of Cusco well before Pizarro arrived in the city with his men. With them they would have brought the Punchao, their 14 gold-clad mummies of their Emperors along with other priceless artifacts. Their destination being El Dorado, The lost city of Gold.

It is said that the Spanish only acquired a small portion of the Incas actual gold and silver. This makes sense once you know that the Incas had several months to hide their treasures. Pizarro and his men did not arrive to sack Cusco until several months after he had sent his first scouts.

So where were these treasures taken? It was because of this missing fortune that the legend of El Dorado was born. Spanish explorers arrived on the shores of Peru by the hundreds during the 16th and 17th century to look for the lost city, many never to return from the mountainous jungle area where it is rumored to be.

Chronicles point to a city called “Paikikin” or better known today as the Spanish called it, El Gran Paititi; El Dorado of legend. A legend of course is born from the stories that claim to prove its existence, and since the 17th century these tales have inspired archeologists and explorers to seek out the fabled city.

“In 1681, Fray Lucero, a Jesuit missionary spoke to the Indians in the Rio Huallagu area of northeastern Peru, who told him that the lost city of Gran Paititi lay behind the forests and mountains east of Cuzco. He wrote: “This empire of Gran Paytite has bearded, white Indians. The nation called Curveros, these Indians told me, dwell in a place called Yurachuasi or the ‘white house’. For king, they have a descendant of the Inca Tupac Amaru, who with 40,000 Peruvians, fled far away into the forests, before the face of the conquistadors of Francisco Pizarro’s day in AD 1533. Could this be the local name for El Dorado?

He took with him a rich treasure, and the Castilians who pursued him fought each other in the forests, leaving the savage Chuncho Indios, who watched their internecine struggles, to kill off the wounded and shoot the survivors with arrows. I myself have been shown plates of gold and half-moons and ear-rings of gold that have come from this mysterious nation.””

The search for this elusive lost city has also claimed the lives of explorers and ambitious adventurers. In 1970, journalist Robert Nichols went on his own quest for the fabled city. A seasoned adventurer, he left to search for El Gran Paititi well equipped with his journey mapped out to explore the area around La Convencion. He was never to be heard of again. It has been told that large Indian warriors guard the citadel, claims from other explorers describe them being chased out of areas by tall Amazonians of fair skin.

However the search for the El Dorado has also proved invaluable to the discovery of new ruins and archeological wonders, the most famous of which occurred in 1911 when a young explorer named Hiram Bingham stumbled upon what he thought was the lost city of Vilcapampa. Bingham’s rediscovery of Machu Picchu would prove not to be the famous El Dorado although just as spectacular a discovery.

Machu Picchu circa 1916

One of the most recent developments to prove the existence of El Dorado came in 2001. Mario Polia, an Italian Archeologist came across a document written in 1600 by a missionary named Andrea Lopez, who describes a large city, rich in gold, silver and gemstones, located in the rainforest and called “Paititi by it’s inhabitants. He described waterfalls and deep forest surrounding the golden city. However he failed to indicate the location of the city.

Pyramids of Paratoari

Current investigations have lead to an area known as Paratoari where massive pyramid like objects have been reported to be seen from the air. Upon further investigation it is now known that the structures are most likely geological although there are some human made structures in the vicinity and tools have been found in the area. “Furthermore, the locals, the Machiguengas, considered these pyramids to be a sanctuary of the “ancients”, known locally as the Paratoari”.

However reaching Paratoari from the ground is very difficult and requires extensive funding to research the massive area. The mysterious pyramids were recently documented in History Channels Digging for the Truth Series.

Whether El Dorado exist remains to be seen. As real as ever though remains the romanticism attributed to adventure and exploration of the Amazon, the lure of hidden treasure and a golden city. So perhaps El Dorado is not a gold plated temple like depicted in the movies but more of a storage depot for the unaccounted treasures of the Inca Empire.

It could even be underground for all we know, an end point to a vast network of tunnels in Peru. Or perhaps Cusco remains El Dorado as in the times before the Spanish, only that the real lost city remains hidden underneath the foundations of the night clubs and McDonald’s that litter the central plaza of this ancient city.

El Dorado
Satellite showing mysterious man made structure in area where El Paititi is presumed to be.

“In 1999, Anselm Pi Rambla negotiated with the National Institute of Culture, the palace of Government and Father Gamarra to arrange the conditions for the exploration beneath the Monastery of Santo Domingo in search of the Inca tunnel. Sponsored by Texan financier Michael Galvis (cost: $760,000), the project got underway in August 2000, using ground penetrating radar to map the underground tunnel. The project revealed that “beneath the altar of Santa Rosa, about four or five meters down, we located a cavity two meters wide that we believe can be the entrance to a great tunnel.”

Excerpts from “The Gold of Gran Paititi” by Philip Coppens

11

While many Americans were caught up in the media frenzy that was the Presidential Campaign of Barack Obama, only a few were really paying attention to the actions of the man who would become President. This side of the equator actions speak louder then words and Barack Obamas support of the new North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) with Peru has kicked up a hornets nest of problems. Now I do not intend this to be an anti-Obama article, just for my readers to open up their eyes and realize that the actions of men stand as their ultimate legacy, defining them throughout history.

To understand the North American Free Trade Agreement and how it has impacted Latin American Countries, we must first look to our own shores and how it has profoundly impacted Americans in the United States. In Massachusetts alone it is estimated that 100,000 manufacturing jobs have been lost in the last decade and 3 million jobs at the national level sent oversees due to NAFTA. Perhaps this “free trade” agreement can hold some responsibility for our current economic crisis, as it seeks to set up trade deals that benefit corporations and profit rather the workers and progress.

NAFTA

The Birth of NAFTA

NAFTA was created on December 8th, 1993 by the leaders of Canada, Mexico and the United States, it is one of the most powerful, wide-reaching treaties in the world. Its two supplements, the North American Agreement on Environmental Cooperation (NAAEC) and The North American Agreement on Labour Cooperation (NAALC) make up the bulk of the document.

What is wrong with this free trade agreement is that it hurts consumers in countries where it’s in effect and cripples the small farm or manufacturer who has to compete with monopolistic and massive corporations who sell their products cheaply. These same corporations hire cheap labor and despite all the legal paperwork that is supposed to be included in NAALC, companies would rather outsource their labor to cut costs and make more profit. All of this is at the expense of the workers from both countries in agreement, the North American Free Trade Agreement in essence is government-directed, government-negotiated trade, which is mercantilism and not free trade.

NAFTA Political Cartoon

Real free trade is as easy as cutting tariffs on imports and exports, doing away with the International Trade Commission and a host of other restrictions that seem to favor monopolistic corporations instead of the start up small business owner, manufacturer, farmer etc. In all Obamas speeches about “Joe the Plumber” and “Main Street” and how he was going to try to work on the economy, Barack Obama did not at all seem to mention his opinions on the North American Free Trade Agreement, an agreement that if dissected would reveal to be a major contributor to the United States current economic depression.

Or did he? On February 24th, 2008 while campaigning in Ohio, Obama said “I don’t think NAFTA has been good for Americans, and I never have,” So why skip a very important vote in the senate and not vote against an agreement that would damage so many economically in both the United States and Peru?

We can all hope that his skipped vote wasn’t politically motivated, after all it is Republicans who overwhelmingly vote for these trade deals to pass anyway, I am sure the trade deal had very strong support amongst liberals and Senator Obama would just vote among party lines. In fact the Peru deal was approved by an overwhelming vote of 285 in favor to 132 against. But its most striking aspect was that 109 Democrats voted yes and 116 voted no.

So what was the President-elects motivation behind skipping the vote for the NAFTA agreement with Peru after publicly supporting it along with Hillary Clinton? It’s safe to assume that he didn’t want to be labeled a flip flopper and lose his support among the majority of South Americans that view NAFTA unfavorably, however in a vote that gained very little media attention in the United States, would it really have been too much for Obama to stand by his principles and vote against the trade deal?

Would it have been too much for him to accept Peru’s invitations to the APEC Summit being hosted in Lima to discuss economic cooperation? Hey and what about the Peruvian hairless “Machu Picchu ” that was offered to him and his family as the new White House Dog?

Peruvian Hairless Dog

In a open letter to Obama from the Latin American Studies Association, they describe to the new President that “Latin Americans have often viewed the United States not as a friend but as an oppressor, the guarantor of an international economic system that works against them, rather than for them– the very antithesis of hope and change.” and that “While anti-American feelings run deep, history demonstrates that these feelings can change.

In the 1930s, after two decades of conflict with the region, the United States swore off intervention and adopted a Good Neighbor Policy. Not coincidentally, it as the most harmonious time in the history of U.S.-Latin American relations. In the 1940s, every country in the region became our ally in World War Two. It can happen again.”

Farm workers and manufacturers are bracing themselves in cities and rural communities throughout Peru. For the past couple of months Peruvians were told that the economic depression from the US would not impact them too severely, that our trade relations were deeply rooted worldwide and that our financial institutions independent. All of the rhetoric was taken lightheartedly as the reality of the signing of the new free trade agreement began to emerge.

Foremost is the unjust competition between Peruvian agricultural products and North American products which are subsidized by the US government, unlike the agricultural products of Peru. If that wasn’t enough new labor laws introduced by the agreement fail to address many key labor issues such as overtime, pay and social security.

It is expected that a privatized social security system similar to the proposal by President Bush will be implemented in Peru. The main beneficiary seems to be Citibank, the largest shareholder in ProFuturo AFP, a company authorized to compete against Peru’s national social security system. Protest against free trade deal in Lima

American mining companies who have made billions in profit in the last 30 years continue to abuse worker rights and continue to offer low wages to their workers , many of whom suffer from fatigue and bronchial infections. And what’s on the horizon? What can Peruvians and Latin Americans alike look forward to in the future due to the new free trade agreement?

NAFTA Protest Peru
Protest against free trade deal in Lima

Likely more American corporations who have just been handed the paperwork to let them consume foreign resources while maneuvering around labor and environmental laws. We can only hope the new American President stops ignoring his neighbors and his own citizens and draft a new real free trade agreement.