Cuzco, high city of the Incas, Spanish conquest and international Gringo haven. Famous for its incredible beauty, ringed by mountains and sacred ruins, the city is layered with so much history and written about by so many, visiting Cusco feels like a loaded challenge to say anything fresh. Alas, I will try but forgive if it sounds kitsch or familiar …

Flying at 5am, a plane full of flighty travelers and sleepy locals. Not certain of the anticipation until it creeps up my spine, a feeling of elation, something coming that I hadn’t quite found in Lima. Over the Andes, the expanse of mountains, the Peru that I had been visiting in my dreams lay ahead of me.

And sunrise, the great God Inti shows himself as we circle the city, with generous time to scope the broad landscape, the valley floor and the cordillera, it´s broad spine stretching out in every direction. Houses dug into the mountains, warm with the sun and an earthy umber glow. There´s a patchy, chaotic order, a vast intersection of roads, terracotta roofs, electric lines and the hefty number of cathedrals towering over the low lying city.

The air is thin and fresh, and the airport fills with sounds of panpipes, the musicians set about in the baggage terminal, all colourful to greet and sell their wares. Despite the strange irony of the setting, hearing this music lifts the otherwise dead space and gives me smiles.

One thing you adjust to in Cuzco is the selling of wares. Alot of conversation with other travelers revolves around where and what people are spending money on. There´s massive inflation, and the city has every kind of traveler, shoe-string 20 soles-a-day and others living in the greatest luxury.

Tourism is the backbone of so many livelihoods, and it comes in all shapes and sizes. I´m still adjusting to the nightlife of this city, every night of the week bars spilling with people, every nationality. This old, old city parties late with the sophistication of a modern metropolis, with small idio synchronicities thrown in. The little taxis buzz around bottle-necking in narrow lanes, blowing horns and gesturing with polite Peruvian road rage.

Many amazing restaurants… do your research – the quality varies in a big way. The local fare tends to be meaty, alpaca, trout and guinea pig are staples and the many varieties of potato, first grown in the Andes and exported to the world hundreds of years ago. The local Pisco sour is a mean mix of a brandy-like grape liquor with egg whites, lemon juice and sugar and well worth sampling. Exploring the food of this city is a pleasure, from high-end to market stalls, there´s something in discovering a place that feels just right for the moment, so far my favorite: x3 for excellent espresso on Marques, and a classic Australian burger at Dos Naciones on Wuanapata.

Visiting Cusco and Sacsayhuaman

The ruins of Sacsayhuaman (affectionately known as Sexy Woman) above the city, form the head of the Puma which stretches out down into the valley and was the outline of the original Incan city. The frown of the Puma is created by incredible zigzag walls originally 15 or so metres high, chiseled to fit without mortar. The site was used for ritual sacrifice, the honouring of sun, moon, stars and earth, and sends the head spinning with questions. The unbelievable feat of will, tenacity and organization, building with such raw material and resources – can´t help think how soft we´ve become.

The stomach of the puma, originally established as the center of the Incan world, was supplanted by the Spanish as the site for the Plaza de Armas, the central cathedral and square and still forms the bustling heart of Cuzco. The righteousness of the Spanish seems so brazen, the colonial conquest is still palpable here. Tonight as I wondered down Saphi beside a formal parade of young girls from the local convent school, in their Grey suits along with the bizarre spectacle of a nun inside a minivan on the loudspeaker, it gave a strong sense of how much the Catholic church pervades life here. Sunday today and the cathedrals are full of the repentant and faithful.

Tomorrow I begin work at Aldea Yanapay, a school for local Cuzco children, established by a local guy keen to offer the many poor kids in this city access to a loving and creative environment, after their day at the local state school finishes. Classes start at 3 and go until 7pm, with art, music, theater and general lessons covering a fresh topic every week. The school has a hostel and restaurant which contribute income and the hostel is cheap and super cheerful, full of travelers from all over the world, keen to offer some time to the project. Signing off for now from Aldea Yanapay … more of the school and life in this fantastic town soon,

Be well +
Tania

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